Charge Motion Delete Plates Install

[SuperSonic05]

Charge Motion Delete Plates (http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10325/CMCVdelete.pdf)

[SuperSonic05]

Here is Toca Bill's as found on Mustangforums.com

Steeda (Ford Racing) Charge Motion Control Valve delete plate installation

I obtained these delete plates from Tillman Speed at a great price (http://mustangforums.com/forum/). CR is a stand up guy and will get you the best price he can. I recommend using Tillman Speed as the premier source for these delete plates.

First, let’s some of these acronyms out of the way.
CMCV (Charge Motion Control Valve) Delete
CMDP (Charge Motion Delete Plates)
CMRC (Charge Motion Runner Controls) Delete
… are pretty much the same thing.

Before beginning this installation, you must already have a tune that compensates for the CMDP’s. If you don’t, you will get a Check Engine light or worse, the car (http://mustangforums.com/forum/) will go into Fail Safe Mode.


CMCV out from the box. They are identical to the OEM CMCV with the exception of the valves.
Note: Each delete runner is marked Left or right just like the OEM runners.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_3986.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_3994.jpg


Baseline pictures
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4001.jpg

Passenger side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4003.jpg

Drivers side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4004.jpg


1. Disconnect the ‘negative’ side of the battery. Why? It’s especially important to cut battery power when unplugging and plugging back in electrical connections to eliminate any electrical surges. It’s just safe to do and only takes 15 seconds.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4043.jpg


2. If you have the means, use compressed air to blow the area of the intake to remove any dirt and debris. If unable to blow the area clean, use caution when removing the intake manifold to avoid any debris from falling into the intake ports of the heads.

Picture note: I was installing the underdrive pulleys at the same time, so that’s why you see additional parts in the engine bay removed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4059.jpg


3. If you haven’t already done so, remove the factory airbox or CAI.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4013.jpg

Note: Don’t forget to unplug the Mass Air Flow Sensor from the intake air tube by sliding the red lock lever back.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4010.jpg


4. Disconnect the all the electrical connections to the throttle body and intake manifold.

Throttle Position Sensor – slide the red lock lever back
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4014.jpg

Electronic Throttle Body Electrical Controller – slide the red lock lever back
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4015.jpg

Electrical plug from the Drivers side fuel rail – press the lock lever down to release
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4016.jpg

Electrical plug from the rear of the Charge Motion Control Valve (near the firewall) – lift up on the lock lever to release
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4029.jpg

Fuel injector electrical connectors (4 each side) – press the lock lever down to release
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4025.jpg


5. Lift off the circular wire bundle support clips off from the fuel rail studs, both sides.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4027.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4028.jpg

[SuperSonic05]

6. Remove the 2 vacuum lines from the front Drivers side of the intake.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4005.jpg

For the upper line (the one with the white clip), grasp the connector and twist off the vacuum hose.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4023.jpg

For the lower line, slide the green release lever to the side and pull to disconnect. If you can’t get the angle to pull it off, you can disconnect it from the camcover, then unclip it from the intake.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4019.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4024.jpg


7. Remove the 4 studs that attach the fuel rail to the manifold (2 each side, reference step 5).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4114.jpg


8. Lift off the fuel rails. Grasp each end of the fuel rail and firmly pull straight up. All 4 injectors will pop up from the Charge Motion Plate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4116.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4117.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/th_MVI_4118.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/?action=view&current=MVI_4118.flv)

Carefully lift the Passenger side fuel rail (with injectors attached) up and over to the Drivers side, then move both fuel rails clear of the intake manifold. I laid some clean rags over the injectors to protect them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4119.jpg


9. Remove the 10 bolts that hold the manifold down (5 each side). The bolts are fairly long in length.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4120.jpg

Note: The rear Drivers side bolt is actually a stud. Remove it the same way as the other bolts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4124.jpg

Note: There’re 2 hidden bolts (1 each side) towards the center of the manifold, which are located under the fuel line that connected the 2 fuel rails together. Once completely loose, a magnet retrieval tool will aid in lifting it out from in-between the runners.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4122.jpg
10. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the rear of the Charge Motion assembly from the T-fitting.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4127.jpg
11. Not mentioned anywhere is this push-in fastener that supports a wire harness that's attached to the Charge Motion motor bracket (passenger side). It's a pain to pull out; needle nose pliers will help.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4129.jpg


12. The intake manifold is ready to be removed. Carefully lift the manifold out and set it upside down on a workbench (or equivalent).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4130.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4135.jpg


13. I put some tape over the intake ports to eliminate any chances of dirt or debris from falling into the intake ports.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4133.jpg

[SuperSonic05]

14. Remove the 3 silver bolts that hold the Charge Motion motor to the back of the intake manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4134.jpg


15. Using a #30 Torx bit, remove the 4 screws (2 on each plate) that attach the plate to the manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4138.jpg


16. Remove the whole motor and 2 plates as one unit and set aside.
Clean off and lay the new delete plates next to the OEM plates (take note of the L/R stampings)
Carefully lift up each green seal and install into the new plate one at a time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4141.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4142.jpg


17. Once all the green seals are in place, I cleaned off the opposite side once more before placing the delete plate back on the manifold.
Even with the 2 Torx screws back in, there's considerable movement of the plates. Do your best to align all the injector hole openings to that from the manifold as well as the mounting holes.
I tightened down the Torx screws until I felt the seals compress onto the manifold. Careful not to over tighten them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4154.jpg


Just for kicks, I tacked down a Sacagewea Dollar coin on top of the block for fun, Eagle side up, of course. I can honestly say now, no matter what happens to my engine, it'll always be worth a buck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4151.jpg


Yes, I am the Manifold King.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4156.jpg


18. Remove the protective tape from step 13 and clean off the mating surface of the block. I used brake cleaner to remove any oil and fuel residues. Make sure the surface is dry before putting the manifold back on. I'm not sure how the green seals will react to the brake cleaner (nor do I want to find out).

Note: I chose to leave off the Charge Motion motor altogether since Doug's tune deactivates it.

Note: Since the motor electrical plug is no longer used, I zip tied it to the conduit against the firewall.

Carefully lower the manifold back on top of the block.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4155.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4157.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4158.jpg


19. Once the manifold is in position, drop the mounting bolts in place and snug them up.
Follow the proper torque sequence and torque them to 89 lb-in.
Thanks to my brother-in-law, Kevin and buddy, Leo, for giving me a hand in torquing the bolts down as my lower back was killing me at this point.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4161.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4163.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/intakemanifoldtorquesequence.jpg


20. Re-install the fuel rails and push the injectors back down into the manifold/delete plate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4165.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4166.jpg


21. Re-connect all the electrical plugs removed from step 4 and vacuum hoses from steps 6 and 10. Also, re-install the factory airbox (or CAI).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4167.jpg


22. Re-attach the Negative battery terminal and flash the PCM with the new tune.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v673/tacobill35/FRPP%20CMCV%20Delete%20install/IMG_4170.jpg


23. Before starting the engine, ensure you have all the electrical connectors and vacuum lines plugged back in. Clear the engine bay of any tools and rags before starting.

Note: Let it idle while you inspect each injector for fuel leaks or any other issues. If there's an issue, shut down the engine immediately and fix the issue.

Note: Make sure you don't have a Check Engine light either. If you do, go over all the electrical connections and vacuum lines to make sure they're positively engaged. Last possible cause could be the tune, in which case I would attempt to re-flash the PCM.



Installation complete!

[mot250]

What year did FORD change the intake to include the CMCVs as part of the intake instead of seperate as seen in these instructions?

That leaves those year and newer cars to convert to an older style upper intake in order to eliminate these valves or use one of the aftermarket upper intakes like from C&L that does not have these valves.

[Grabber]

Looks fun. I'll be doing this once the plates arrive.

Hoping to get at least 10-15 RWHP out of them.

[mot250]

Steeda is running a "special" on their polished version, save $20 ($279 and free shipping).

BTW, to answer my previous question, Ford changed the upper plastic intake for the 2009 model year 3V V-8's so that the charge motion valves are now part of the intake and can not be removed using CMDPs like these unless you also swap in a 2005 - 2008 upper intake (or use an aftermarket upper intake).

[SC.Vitamin.C]

I got mine from Bamachips $125+$10 shipping. Just waiting on them to ship.

[mot250]

I got mine from Bamachips $125+$10 shipping. Just waiting on them to ship.

Steeda used to also carry a budget cast version for around that price that had the same internal volume as the stock ones with the valves. But they eventually dropped that version in favor of only carrying their polished version with a larger internal volume.

How are the ones from Bama?

[jdebs]

i feel kinda dumb asking but what do they do and what kind of power do they give you?

[Grabber]

i feel kinda dumb asking but what do they do and what kind of power do they give you?


In short, they allow for more air to come into the motor.

N/A cars gain about 7-10 RWHP. Haven't seen what S/C cars gain. Also, cars with Roots/TS blowers cannot get them, due to the S/C being mounted on top of the intake manifold.

[SC.Vitamin.C]

Steeda used to also carry a budget cast version for around that price that had the same internal volume as the stock ones with the valves. But they eventually dropped that version in favor of only carrying their polished version with a larger internal volume.

How are the ones from Bama?

Well I haven't gotten them yet but Ryan has these same ones. I believe these are made by Steeda as well.

[king_Ahmet]

Nice write up man...