Spydershaft Driveshaft Install!

[SuperSonic05]

I found this on mustangforums.com by tocobill

This 'How-To' will cover the installation of the 3.5" Shaftmasters 1-piece aluminum driveshaft with adapter plate.

For those with the replacement pinion flange kit, see step 10 for further instructions.

Tools required
Various metric sockets (10, 12 (12 point), 13, 18mm)
12mm (12 point) ratcheting box end wrench (optional)
12mm (12 point) crows foot extension
8mm Hex-bit socket
Universal joint socket
Socket extensions (various lengths)
Blue Loctite
Torque wrench (up to 76 lb-ft)
Long flat blade screwdriver (or equiv. pry tool)
Rubber mallet (optional)
Brake cleaner (or equiv.)
Straight edge razor blade
Masking tape
Permanent Marker

Estimated install time: 2 hours


Installation

1. Jack the vehicle (http://mustangforums.com/forum/#) up as high and safe as possible. Always use jack stands!



2. Using a permanent marker (I used paper 'white-out'), index mark the forward transmission output flange and the rear pinion flange (2 reasons, note the clocking of these 2 marks so the new aluminum driveshaft will be indexed as the OEM shaft, and incase you ever have to re-install the OEM shaft).

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2437.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2438.jpg


2A. If equipped, remove the driveshaft brace directly below the center carrier. It can be removed with the exhaust in place. This brace will not be used with the Shaftmaster.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2446.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2447.jpg


3. With the transmission in neutral, e-brake off, rotate the driveshaft (or have a helper turn the rear tire) for best access to the rear CV bolts. Set e-brake (so the bolts can be removed).


4. Using a 10mm socket, remove the (6) CV joint bolts.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2449.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2450.jpg


5. Using a 12mm (12 point) socket (or ratcheting wrench), remove the 4 driveshaft flange bolts from the transmission output flange.

Note: Release the e-brake and put in Neutral to rotate the driveshaft as necessary to gain access to the bolts. Do not forget to set the e-brake (may need to engage in Park for Auto tranmissions).

Note: Save these 4 bolts, they will be re-used.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2443.jpg


6. Using a suitable pry tool (a flat blade screwdriver worked fine for me), insert it into the U-joint at the position shown. The driveshaft will compress slightly to allow the driveshaft flange to disconnect from the transmission flange.
Use care not to damage or mar the transmission flange.
If unable to wedge anything in, use a rubber mallet to break the contact between the U-Joint and flange (PB Blaster (or equiv.) may be necessary to loosen up any rust keeping it from separating).


7. Place a couple pieces a 2x4's on top of the mid-pipes to keep the driveshaft from falling onto the pipes once the center bearing bracket is loosened.

8. Using a 13mm socket (and universal joint adapter if required), remove the 2 bolts from the center bearing bracket (located about mid-way on the driveshaft).

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2455.jpg


9. Driveshaft is now completely unbolted from the vehicle and now can be positioned to be removed through the rear in-between the mid-pipes.


10. Preparation for new driveshaft installation

Note: If you have the replacement pinion flange kit, see Driveshaft Pinion Flange Install (w/pics) (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=78021) for installation instructions.

A thorough cleaning must be done on the rear pinion flange prior to the installation of the adapter plate. The adapter is machined to an interference fit, so to have it mate against the pinion flange without any debris (Loctite, grease, etc.) in-between is critical!

Using a plastic scraper and/or single edge (http://mustangforums.com/forum/#) razor, carefully scrape off any dried thread locker off from the pinion flange.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2464.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2466.jpg

Pinion flange should look as clean as this.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2468.jpg


10A. Position the adapter plate into the pinion flange and using the 6 provided hex head bolts, evenly draw the adapter into the flange using a standard 'star' torque (http://mustangforums.com/forum/#) pattern until all 6 bolts are tight (but, not torqued).

Note: Do not put any Loctite on these bolts yet, must be installed dry at this time to avoid any Loctite from dripping in-between the adapter and pinion flange (Yes, it's that critical!).

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2470.jpg


Note: To ensure the adapter is fully and evenly seated onto the pinion flange, rig up a magnetic dial indicator (or hold stationary anything non-metallic) and have a helper turn the tires to check for flatness/trueness on the face of the adapter.


10B. Once the adapter plate is fully seated, remove one bolt at a time and apply Loctite on the threads, re-install, and torque to 41 lb-ft.

Note: I used a piece of masking tape to mark each bolt that I Locktited and torqued to avoid any confusion.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2475.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2474.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2477.jpg

[SuperSonic05]

BMR front safety loop
Whether you need a safety loop is all up to you.
Here's NHRA's take on it..
A driveshaft loop will be required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks, except vehicles equipped with street tires running 11.49 or slower.

For those installing a BMR front safety loop, see the installation steps below.

BMR1. Remove the 2 rear transmission crossmember bolts using an 18mm socket.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2486.jpg


BMR2. Mount the BMR driveshaft loop mounting angle bracket to the transmission crossmember, re-install the factory bolts and torque to 55 lb-ft.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2487.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2489.jpg


BMR3. Insert the new drive shaft though the BMR loop and let it hang until the 4 bolts on the driveshaft flange to the transmission output flange are installed and torqued complete.
(no picture)


BMR4. See after step 11.


11. New driveshaft installation
With the e-brake off, clock/index the white-out marks you made on the pinion flange and transmission output flange.

Position the new driveshaft up from the rear in-between the mid-pipes and carefully route up to the front (and through the BMR front loop, if applicable).
Place rags over any sharp objects to avoid scratching the new aluminum driveshaft.

Mate up both ends of the driveshaft's U-joints against the rear pinion adapter plate and the forward transmission output flange.

Rotate the driveshaft if necessary to pick up the previously used 4 bolt holes in the transmission output flange, and make sure the 6 o'clock markings didn't move while rotating the driveshaft.

Once everything is in position, Loctite each bolt and snug down tight. Using a 'X' pattern, torque the bolts to the following;
Driveshaft to transmission output flange: 76 lb-ft
Driveshaft to pinion adapter plate: 41 lb-ft

Note: A standard socket / universal joint adapter / ratchet combo will not fit squarely on the U-joint bolts. Correctly torquing these bolts will be difficult without a 12 point Crow's Foot or short socket-U-joint combo (Snap-On has them).
If you choose to use a Crow Foot extension, use the following formula to set your correct torque value.

(T x L) / (L + E) = Adjusted torque value (what you set on your torque wrench)
T= target torque value
L= length of torque wrench in inches (end of handle to center of socket)
E= length of extension in inches (center of socket to center of bolt)

If using a 1" Crow's Foot extension on the front U-joint bolts, here's the way the formula works out.
(76 x 12" torque wrench) / (12" torque wrench + 1" extension) = 70.15 lb-in torque.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2491.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2492.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2493.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2500.jpg


BMR4. Mount the loop portion to the crossmember angle using the supplied bolts and nuts. (no picture)

BMR5. Position the loop so it's even on both sides of the driveshaft (can use you fingers to check for even gap).
(no picture)

BMR6. Tighten the 2 bolts and ensure the even gap is maintained.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2495.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2497.jpg


INSTALLATION COMPLETE!


Baseline/comparison photos

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2508.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2429.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2416.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2417.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2421.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/demios85/Shaftmaster%20DS/IMG_2461.jpg

[SC.Vitamin.C]

Thanks Ryan. This is the write up I read.

[Grabber]

Def. not hard. Just need patience, and prep time is all.

Looks like a very fun time IMHO.

[ShadyNinja]

I want to do this mod, but cant justify the steep price:(

[SC.Vitamin.C]

I want to do this mod, but cant justify the steep price:(

I got a great deal on a used one :woohoo:

[ShadyNinja]

must be nice

[SC.Vitamin.C]

must be nice

:nod:

[SuperSonic05]

Adjusting LCAs for aftermarket 1 piece DR. Shaft


Ok, here is the pinion angle procedure for a ONE PIECE DRIVESHAFT. This procedure is not correct for the OEM 2-pc shaft. This works for lowered cars or for stock-height cars, but this is for 1-pc shafts only.

Jack up both the front and the rear of the car so you can get under both the transmission area of the car and the rear-end area. The rear suspension must be loaded. This means the rear tires must be sitting on ramps, or the rear axle tube must be supported by a lift or jackstands. The front end can be lifted however you like.

It is good if you can get the car level, but it is not required.

Get under the car and remove your 1-pc driveshaft. (or if you are installing the driveshaft for the first time, you can do this after you've got the OEM one out, and before you put the new one in).

Get your angle finder and measure the angle of the transmission output flange. Write this number down. Refer to the sketch for taking this measurement.

Move over to the rear end of the car and measure the angle of the pinion flange. Write this number down. Note that this can be tricky if you have a "triangle" shaped angle gage. If you flip the triangle over, you are now measuring angles from a different reference point--don't do that, it will mess up your results. Use a carpenter's square as shown in my sketch, so the angle gage is held in the same orientation as it was for the trans flange. If you have a "square" type of gage then just use the side of the square opposite the one you used for the trans flange.

Now adjust the LCAs so that the two angles are the same. Keep adjusting and checking until the angle at the pinion (#2) matches what you recorded for the transmission flange.

At this point the two flanges are parallel. If you are running a full racing suspension then you're done here, skip to putting the driveshaft back in.

On a typical car with minor mods, you now need to add a little negative angle. Adjust the LCAs so that they lengthen (if you are using an adjustable UCA, then shorten it instead), making the nose rear end housing dip down a little bit. Go about 2 degrees beyond the trans flange measurement. Again, this is called a negative angle but depending on how your angle gage is marked, it might not actually be a negative number by your measurements. The same thing I wrote above applies here. If you have a fully aftermarket rear end, you could run about 1 to 1.5 degrees. If you are running a common street setup with one set of control arms only, then 2 degrees or so is more appropriate.

Once your angle is set where you want it, loctite your jam nuts and torque them down. Re-install your driveshaft, and go for a test drive.


http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj_files/image006.jpg

[SonicGT]

Just an FYI when I changed to a 1 piece DS my pinion angle stayed the same, I didn't make any changes.

That is until I lowered it, at the same time I lowered it I also put the BMR UCA in to ensure proper pinion angle, I also have the BMR Safety Loop which I would recommend just because its not that expensive and as the write up above shows not that difficult to do.

[SC.Vitamin.C]

So if my car is not lowered and I don't have adjustable LCAs, I don't have to worry about this yes?

[Wolf]

So if my car is not lowered and I don't have adjustable LCAs, I don't have to worry about this yes?


if your car is not lowered there is a chance the angle does not have to be corrected.

you misunderstood the second part; the lcas are not what you are adjusting for but rather how the car is adjusted after the ds is put on. you may need the adjustment on a stock ride height, olny way to tell is to put it on and measure.

[SonicGT]

So if my car is not lowered and I don't have adjustable LCAs, I don't have to worry about this yes?

There is always a chance your car will not be accurate, but I didn't need anything.

And I got the UCA when I lowered mine, I do not have LCA's

[SuperSonic05]

So if my car is not lowered and I don't have adjustable LCAs, I don't have to worry about this yes?

you can use adjustable LCAs or adjustable UCA.

[mot250]

you can use adjustable LCAs or adjustable UCA.

Or you can go really crazy and use an adjustable UCA, a set of adjustable LCAs, LCA lowering brackets and a UCA lowering bracket like I did but I'm crazy like that :screwy: and all I did was lower the car slightly and maintain my stock two piece driveshaft.

[SuperSonic05]

thats crazy

[mot250]

thats crazy

Yeah, I spent hours getting everything aligned using tape measures, lengths of string, levels and a lazer level to center and square the rear (also and adjustable panhard bar) both front to rear in the wheel wells as well as side to side. Then I did the front end (springs, struts plus adjustable camber plates on top) and took it in for an alignment and I asked them to check the rear also.

Well, the Mustang rear is not adjustable from the factory so they had no specs. They checked and adjusted the front and then made adjustments to the rear that completely put everything out of whack in the rear. So I spent another few hours re-setting the rear and took it back for them to re-check and re-align the front for me, this time free of charge.

Turns out, the thrust angle for the rear was dead on with my rudementary "shade-tree mechanic" rear alignment.