Wet or DRY???

[GtoLord]

If you had a choice on which Nitrous would be better wet or dry? The setup I am looking at would get me into the 11's however I am having Second thoughts.

[Badrobot]

Wet kit since it mixes fuel and N2O it is alittle bit safer.I ran a NX kit in my Cavalier never had a problem untill i had Boost and spray.

[acireta]

nitrous = damage to your car (even if its done right), bad idea dude

[Wolf]

nitrous = damage to your car (even if its done right), bad idea dude


apologies, but thats just not true. nitrous is no more dangerous than any other forced induction setup and if used properly carries the same risks as anything else that increases stress on an engine.

how big of a shot are you looking at? wet is usually a safer bet.

[SuperSonic05]

wet

[GtoLord]

wet

I like it wet :023:

But anyway doing about a 125 shot.

[GtoLord]

nitrous = damage to your car (even if its done right), bad idea dude


Ok here is what I am doing:

1. Pacesetter Long Tube Headers With Mid Pipes for the 2005
2. SLP Loud Mouth 1 Exhaust
3. Lingenfelter High Performance Air Intake - 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO
4. SLP Rear Sway Bar - 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO
5. BMR Drag Bags

6. Yank Converter 3200

No Nitrous. Decided to set foundation for Heads and Cam Next year.
Anyway Guys with this set up on Dr's are doing low 12's. thats good enough for me.

[Wolf]

youll be just as fast or faster with the spray and it would be a lot cheaper if all youre hunting for is ETs.

[acireta]

apologies, but thats just not true. nitrous is no more dangerous than any other forced induction setup and if used properly carries the same risks as anything else that increases stress on an engine.

how big of a shot are you looking at? wet is usually a safer bet.

i'm not a fan of f/i at all, but i'm just saying it is really easy to cause damage if you don't do it right. and like you said it puts extra stress on your engine (i guess all mods do in a way)...

besides, i like the idea of heads and cams better anyway, just my opinion :023:

[mot250]

Ok here is what I am doing:

1. Pacesetter Long Tube Headers With Mid Pipes for the 2005
2. SLP Loud Mouth 1 Exhaust
3. Lingenfelter High Performance Air Intake - 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO
4. SLP Rear Sway Bar - 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO
5. BMR Drag Bags

6. Yank Converter 3200

No Nitrous. Decided to set foundation for Heads and Cam Next year.
Anyway Guys with this set up on Dr's are doing low 12's. thats good enough for me.

:blah: Enough about what you're going to do to your bad ass GTO, just let us know when you're done already...The suspence is killing me :poke:

[GtoLord]

:blah: Enough about what you're going to do to your bad ass GTO, just let us know when you're done already...The suspence is killing me :poke:


LOL Brother. give me 2 weeks the parts just started coming in today:coffee:

[Grabber]

John, I'd suggest you go nitrous if you are looking for good ET's.

There is nothing wrong with Nitrous or F/I. F/I is always used, while Nitrous isn't. I'd rather have F/I, as there is less of a pain in the ass to maintain it.

Both cars I have, have F/I. One had an S/C from the factory, the other is aftermarket. If you are not hitting boost, it's not putting any extra wear and tear on the motor.

There is only so far you can go on all motor, and for the price of a H/C package for an S197 or Goat, you can go F/I for the same price, and still be faster. Just my .02

[Wolf]

spray it and be done already.

[GtoLord]

:box2:Ok mustangs its on now!!

[Wolf]

what are you looking for john? the 6.0 is already pretty stout, are you looking for ETs or street performance?

i recommend think about that before laying down 4 grand on heads and cams.

[GtoLord]

what are you looking for john? the 6.0 is already pretty stout, are you looking for ETs or street performance?

i recommend think about that before laying down 4 grand on heads and cams.

I am laying the foundation first. Headers, Stall, Exhaust, CAI, Sway Bar, Drag bags, Bushings and Dr's. I want to see how I do at the track with that. Then I will have a good baseline. Next year will be HEads and Cam or a new trans we will see. :box2:. I for sure aint going for just power. You can have all the power you want if the rear cant grab or hook you are SOL. Rememember Vista's average 1/4 MPH was 113 and the best I did was a 12.8. lol

[ShadyNinja]

your injectors will NEVER provide the extra fuel needed for the proper air fuel ratio when on the juice
get the wet kit or nothing.

[GtoLord]

Thanks guys. I am done posting here about the Goat. Long Live The MUSTANGS!!!!

[acireta]

I am done posting here about the Goat.
lmfao, haven't you said that before?

[95blownvert]

John you going to need a wet kit. I don't think anyone makes a dry kit for your car. You would need bigger injectors and a custom tune with a competent tuner to do a dry kit

From ZEX
Q: What is the difference between a "wet" nitrous kit and a "dry" nitrous kit?
A: A wet nitrous kit mixes nitrous and enrichment fuel by means of an injector nozzle that is mounted before the throttle body. This mixture is then drawn into the engine through the throttle body and intake manifold. A "dry" nitrous kit injects only nitrous with it’s injector while at the same time, increasing the engine’s fuel rail pressure to feed enrichment fuel through the engine’s own injectors.
Q: What is better, a "wet" or "dry" kit?
A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system. It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines.

[GtoLord]

lmfao, haven't you said that before?
Hahahahaha Whatever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1